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Jumping Spiders

Jumping Spider Enclosure Setup: 4 Mistakes Beginners Make


With their fuzzy faces and puppy-dog eyes, jumping spiders are the perfect “gateway bug” for exotic pet keepers. For general care advice, my complete beginner’s guide to jumping spiders covers everything you need to know.

Because they’re so tiny, many beginners think they can just throw them into a cheap plastic jar or a standard fish bowl. That’s a disaster waiting to happen.

Jumping spiders have highly specific housing requirements. Setting up their enclosure correctly from the start saves a lot of frustration. Avoid these 4 critical mistakes.

A close-up of a cute Regal Jumping Spider looking directly at the camera

Mistake 1: Using a Top-Opening Enclosure

This is the #1 mistake new keepers make. Jumping spiders are arboreal (tree-dwelling). They will almost always build their thick silk nests (called hammocks) at the very highest point of their enclosure, which is usually right against the lid.

If you buy a top-opening enclosure, you’ll rip their web apart every single time you open the lid to feed or water them. This causes immense stress.

Instead, choose a front-opening or bottom-opening enclosure. Specialized acrylic spider enclosures like the Tarantula Cribs Treehouse or Zilla Micro Habitats are designed for this.

A small, clear acrylic front-opening enclosure designed for jumping spiders

Mistake 2: Not Enough Cross-Ventilation

Jumping spiders are highly susceptible to stagnant air and mold. An enclosure with just a few holes on the top isn’t enough.

The enclosure needs cross-ventilation: air holes on the sides that allow fresh air to flow through constantly. Look for enclosures with ventilation slots or drilled holes on at least two opposite sides.

Mistake 3: The Enclosure is Too Big

While it seems cruel to keep a pet in a small space, putting a tiny jumping spider in a massive 10-gallon tank is actually dangerous. If the tank is too large, the spider will have a very hard time finding the fruit flies or crickets you drop in, and they may starve.

Go by life stage instead: for slings (babies), use a small deli cup. For adults (Phidippus regius), a 4x4x8 inch or 5x5x9 inch arboreal acrylic enclosure works well, though larger enclosures like 8x8x12 inches are also fine as long as the spider can find its food.

Bonus Tip: The Right Lid Material

A mesh lid is preferred over glass or solid plastic lids. Mesh allows for ventilation and gives the spider a surface to anchor its hammock. However, fine metal mesh can snag a spider’s tarsi and cause injury. Use a screen mesh or an acrylic lid with drilled holes instead. If your enclosure has a solid lid, consider replacing it with a mesh panel.

Mistake 4: Missing High-Level Clutter

Spiders don’t care about the floor. If you put a cool skull cave on the dirt, they will never use it. They need “clutter” near the ceiling to anchor their webs and hide.

Glue fake leaves, cork bark tubes, or magnetic feeding ledges near the top half of the enclosure. Arrange them so your spider can easily move between different hiding spots and basking areas.

The Ideal Setup Checklist

Before buying your enclosure, run through this checklist: front-opening doors, cross-ventilation on two sides, appropriate size for your spider’s life stage, mesh or screen lid, and high-level anchor points for web building.

Lighting and Temperature

Jumping spiders don’t require specialized UVB lighting like reptiles, but they benefit from a consistent day/night cycle. A simple LED strip on a 12-hour timer provides enough light for the spider to hunt and explore. Avoid placing the enclosure in direct sunlight. The glass can heat up rapidly and cook your spider.

Temperature-wise, jumping spiders thrive at room temperature (70-78°F / 21-26°C). They can tolerate brief drops to 65°F (18°C) at night, but prolonged exposure below 60°F (16°C) can be fatal. If your home runs cold in winter, use a small heat mat on the side of the enclosure (never the bottom) controlled by a thermostat.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Spot-clean the enclosure as needed: remove boluses (leftover insect parts), wipe condensation off the glass, and replace the substrate monthly. Every 3-4 months, do a deep clean - move the spider to a temporary cup, wash the enclosure with hot water (no soap), rinse thoroughly, and set up fresh substrate and decorations.

Jumping spiders are remarkably tidy pets. With a front-opening enclosure and proper cross-ventilation, a weekly 5-minute cleanup is all you need to keep your spider healthy and happy.

Several pre-built enclosures are popular in the jumping spider community. The Tarantula Cribs Treehouse (acrylic, front-opening, magnetic lock) is a popular choice among experienced keepers. Zilla Micro Habitats offer a more affordable option with good ventilation. For DIY enthusiasts, modifying a clear storage container or Exo Terra Nano with added side ventilation holes and a mesh lid works well. Avoid any enclosure marketed for “insects” or “crickets” that has a solid plastic lid with minimal airflow.

For a side-by-side look at enclosure specs across different species, the Enclosure Guide has you covered. Provide them with high places to explore, keep the air moving, and enjoy watching the smartest little spiders in the world!

Medical Disclaimer

The information on this page is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If your pet is showing signs of illness or distress, consult a qualified exotic veterinarian immediately. Do not delay seeking veterinary care based on information read online.