Jumping Spider Care: The Complete Beginner's Guide

Jumping spiders are one of the most underrated exotic pets you can keep. They are curious, intelligent, and have personalities that rival many larger pets. Unlike tarantulas that sit still for days, jumping spiders actively watch you, hunt with precision, and even seem to recognize their keepers. Researchers have documented their remarkable cognitive abilities, including problem-solving and learning behavior.

Anyone who has kept tarantulas is used to a spider that sits motionless for days and treats your presence as background noise. A regal jumping spider is the opposite. Set up its enclosure and it will spend the first ten minutes exploring your hand instead of hiding from it — a small but unmistakable signal that these spiders aren’t like other arachnids.

Why Jumping Spiders Make Great Pets

Jumping spiders are tiny acrobats with big personalities. They have excellent vision — their four pairs of eyes give them sharp depth perception and the ability to track movement from several feet away — and will follow your finger, turn their heads to look at you, and pounce on prey like miniature lions.

Best Species for Beginners

The Regal Jumping Spider (Phidippus regius) is the most popular species for beginners. They are larger (up to 18mm), come in a variety of color morphs, and are generally docile. The Bold Jumping Spider (Phidippus audax) is another good option, slightly smaller but equally hardy. Once you have your spider, the guide on telling males from females covers this in detail. Avoid wild-caught species until you have experience; captive-bred spiders are healthier and more accustomed to handling.

What makes them great pets: they need very little space (an 8x8x12 inch enclosure provides plenty of room, though smaller arboreal enclosures around 4x4x8 also work well for adult spiders), cost almost nothing to feed (a few fruit flies or small crickets per week), and are fascinating to watch hunt, build web hammocks, and explore. With patience, they can be handled. They rarely bite and their venom isn’t dangerous to humans.

The downsides are worth knowing upfront: most species live only 1-3 years, they require live food (you’ll need to culture fruit flies or buy small feeders), and they’re tiny escape artists when the enclosure opens.

Enclosure Setup

A vertical enclosure is essential. Jumping spiders are arboreal and prefer to climb and hang from the top. A 4x4x8 or 5x5x9 inch arboreal acrylic enclosure works well for adult spiders, though larger enclosures like 8x8x12 inches are also fine as long as the spider can find its food. My enclosure setup guide breaks down the 4 biggest mistakes to avoid.

Key setup tips: add cork bark, branches, and fake plants for climbing enrichment; place a magnetic feeding ledge or suction cup near the top as a resting spot; mist lightly every 2-3 days so the spider can drink droplets from the walls. Some keepers also offer a shallow water dish with pebbles. Jumping spiders drink water droplets. Provide a “hammock” area near the top where they can build a silk retreat.

The substrate can be simple: paper towels, coconut fiber, or a thin layer of soil. Jumping spiders don’t burrow, so the floor is mainly for catching waste. Spot-clean regularly and replace the substrate monthly.

Molting

Jumping spiders molt (shed their exoskeleton) as they grow. Juveniles molt every 2-4 weeks, while adults molt much less often — typically only 1-2 times per year. During molting, your spider will build a thick silk hammock and stay inside for 1-2 weeks. Don’t disturb them during this time. Don’t feed, handle, or even mist directly. A disturbed molting spider can lose a limb or die. After the molt, wait 3-5 days before offering food to allow the new exoskeleton to harden. More on identifying pre-molt behavior in the hiding in its hammock guide.

Feeding

Jumping spiders are active hunters. They need live prey. They won’t eat dead insects.

Good feeder options:

• Flightless fruit flies (for juveniles and small species)
• Small crickets (1/4 inch for adults)
• Small waxworms or mealworms (as treats)

Feed every 2-4 days. A good rule of thumb: the prey should be no larger than the spider’s abdomen. Remove any uneaten prey after 24 hours. Crickets left in the enclosure can stress or even injure your spider.

Water

Jumping spiders drink water droplets. Don’t place a deep water bowl. They can drown. Instead, mist the walls of the enclosure every 2-3 days and watch them drink. Some keepers also use a cotton ball soaked in water placed on a feeding ledge.

Health and Common Issues

Jumping spiders are generally hardy, but a few health issues can arise. The most common problem is dehydration: if your spider’s abdomen looks shriveled or wrinkled, increase misting frequency immediately. A hydrated jumping spider has a plump, rounded abdomen.

Another concern is injury during molting. If the humidity is too low during a molt, the spider may get stuck in its old exoskeleton, potentially losing a leg. Maintain proper humidity (60-70%) and never disturb a molting spider.

Mites and parasites are rare in captive-bred spiders but can be introduced with wild-caught specimens or contaminated substrate. If you see tiny red or white specks crawling on your spider, quarantine immediately and consult a keeper forum for treatment advice.

A healthy jumping spider will be active during daylight hours, have bright clear eyes, and respond to movement. Any spider that remains at the bottom of the enclosure for more than a day, refuses food for over a week, or shows labored breathing may be ill and should be seen by an exotic vet.

Seasonal Care

Jumping spiders are sensitive to seasonal changes. In winter, when homes are drier, you may need to mist more frequently (every 1-2 days instead of every 2-3). If your home drops below 65°F (18°C) at night, provide a small heat mat on the side of the enclosure.

In summer, ensure the enclosure isn’t in direct sunlight. Even an hour of direct sun through a window can raise the internal temperature to deadly levels. Keep the enclosure in a room with consistent temperature rather than near windows or air conditioning vents.

Enrichment and Bonding

Jumping spiders benefit from environmental enrichment. Rotate decorations periodically, offer different types of prey, and provide opportunities for exploration outside the enclosure (under supervision). Many keepers report that their spiders seem to recognize them and will approach the enclosure door when their keeper is nearby.

Handling sessions should be short and positive. Start by opening the enclosure and offering your hand as a platform. Let the spider decide whether to step onto you. Never grab or corner your spider. Over time, regular gentle handling builds trust and makes both feeding and enclosure cleaning easier.

Handling tips: always handle over a soft surface (bed or couch) because a fall can injure them; keep sessions short (5-10 minutes max); wash your hands before and after with no soap residue; and never handle during molting or when they’re building a hammock.

First-time handling can be nerve-wracking, but jumping spiders are naturally curious. Let the spider approach you rather than chasing it around the enclosure. Once they realize your hand isn’t a threat, they will happily explore.

The most rewarding part of keeping a jumping spider is watching their curious nature. They will jump from your finger to a nearby surface and then turn back and tilt their head at you, as if asking “what’s next?” It’s a level of curiosity that few other pets — and no other spider — match.